🪴 Jachére

Japan 2024

Aug 23, 202422 min read

Japan 2024

DatePlaceHotelLinks
27. - 30.TokyoDormy Inn Premium Tokyo Kodenmacho Hot Springhotels.com
30. - 01.MatsumotoRyokan tabi-shiroairbnb.com
tabi-shiro.com
01. - 04.KanazawaHotel Sokihotels.com
uds-hotels.com/en/soki
04. - 08.OsakaPrivate Apartment in Sumiyoshi Wardairbnb.com
08. - 11.OdawaraRyokan Plumhotels.com
ryokanplum.jp/en/
11. - 12.HanedaToyoko Inn Omorihotels.com

Itinerary

27. March - Tokyo

  • Arrival at Haneda and transfer to hotel
  • Dinner around the corner and walk in the neighbourhood

28. March - Tokyo

29. March - Tokyo

30. March - Tokyo-Matsumoto

31. March - Matsumoto

  • Had a thick slice of lightly toasted shokupan with a piece of salted butter on top for breakfast.
  • Decided to pay [[‪4386628191‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/4386628191|‪Shinshu Ishii Miso‬ (‪4386628191‬)]] a visit and went for a walk through some cute streets of the city, passing by [[‪553159088‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/553159088|‪Yohashira Shrine‬ (‪553159088‬)]].
  • Had lunch at Ishii Miso and Florence asked somebody if we can have a look at the miso production. The person was actually a guide and gave us a quick private tour, before a larger group of tourists arrived.
  • After a bit of shopping at the adjunct miso shop, we continued to [[‪1040428833‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/1040428833|‪Matsumoto City Museum of Art‬ (‪1040428833‬)]]. Since Matsumoto is the birthplace of Yayoi Kusama, the museum has the largest collection of her art pieces.
  • Onwards, we had a brief stop at amijok – Nakamachi Street, Matsumoto, Nagano, Japan, where they supposedly make the Nr. 1 muffins in Matsumoto, and they didn’t lie.
  • We finished our sight seeing tour with a visit of the castle gardens and the castle itself, which was super nice. It’s crazy steep inside the castle with lots of stairs everywhere.
  • After a brief refresh at our ryokan, we had dinner at the [[‪4483500089‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/4483500089|‪Soba-dokoro Kippo‬ (‪4483500089‬)]]2, where we ate raw horse sashimi and fantastic soba dishes. Mine had yamaimo3 on top and was super neba-neba4.

01. April - Matsumoto-Kanazawa

  • We had breakfast in a shōwa-style cafe and then went to a cute and long street that had many local craft shops, Nakamachi Street and bougth ourselves some souvenirs
  • Took the train to Kanazawa, and changed to take our first shinkansen in Nagano. I saw an small sign mentioning that the “Snow Monkey Pass” could be bought at a kiosk and I really wanted to see snow monkeys.
  • Taking the shinkansen was nice, but not that exciting since the window are rather small and I like to watch the landscape passing by.
  • Were greeted with some rain and a massive tori at the trainstation of Kanazawa. The place felt instantly different. Everything in Kanazawa is built low, long and dense.
  • Went to check in to our hotel, Soki, which was just slightly awkward. As many other hotels they have a self check-in, but there is always a person guiding you through the process and doing half of the step. The hotel was filled with tourists and offered really nice rooms and a fantastic onsen-experience. I had to buy tattoo-cover patches tho.
  • Got a recommendation from the staff about a fresh-fish serving izakaya nearby that we promptly visited, 炭魚酒菜わなか (wanaka). They were a bit confused since they neither spoke english nor had an english menu but we were able to partially translate the hand-written menu, ordered and had the best time of our life. After ordering, the re-seated us to the bar and we could watch them prepare the food and good some hand-and-feet interaction.
  • That experience was a bit foundational for Kanazawa, were they are not that used to western tourists and often don’t speak english at all. They were nonetheless always super engaging and offered tremendous hospitality.
  • Went home, applied some of the tattoo-patches and enjoyed a gender-separated onsen-experience. What a great way of end a long day.

02. April - Kanazawa

  • Had breakfast in the hotel which looked better on photo then it tasted in real.
  • Visited the roofed market [[‪305088806‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/305088806|Way: ‪Omicho Ichibakan‬ (‪305088806‬)]] that is just located next to the hotel.
  • Made our way towards [[‪197980651‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/197980651|Way: ‪Kanazawa Castle‬ (‪197980651‬)]] and [[‪50288147‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/50288147|Way: ‪Kenrokuen Park‬ (‪50288147‬)]] which we wanted to visit, also hunting down some cherry-blossoms.
  • Passed by [[‪51889404‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/51889404|Way: ‪Ozaki Shrine‬ (‪51889404‬)]] and [[‪207744651‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/207744651|Way: ‪Oyama-jinja Shrine‬ (‪207744651‬)]], both of which were wonderful. Especially the latter was located within a small beautiful forest with lots of moss and a pond.
  • Oyama-jinja was connected to the castle gardens through a restored bridge and we had to pass through a massive castle gate, which left an impression.
  • We were a bit too early for the castle gardens, but they looked fantastic.
  • Visited the castle which was built completely different then in Matsumoto. Instead of several floors going up, it just had two and was very long. It was also restored and some buildings were missing.
  • Found some cherry-blossom-buds and some blossoming prune-trees, in the Kenrokuen gardens. But I was overly taken by all the beautiful, old, and well-care-taken trees. Kanazawa is known for Yukitsuri, the art of supporting trees during heavy snow fall. They hang ropes from poles and carry branches like that. Older and thicker branches get direct support from poles. What a view.
  • Had lunch in a traditionally-seating-styled restaurant in the middle of the tourist hotspot next to the park, and the food was very nice and the service took everything very serious. Had cold soba-noodles and Florence took curry with soba.
  • On our way to the [[‪197980653‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/197980653|Way: ‪21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa‬ (‪197980653‬)]], we passed by [[‪880254565‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/way/880254565|Way: ‪Ishiura Shrine‬ (‪880254565‬)]]. Sadly the museum was closed due to damage by the recent 2024 Noto earthquake, that was felt until Kanazawa. We visited the two art museum shops instead, gave some money to the disaster relief fund and had tea and cake in a café in the building.
  • Decided to use the rest of the day to visit the Nagamachi Samurai District - Wikidata, were we encountered beautiful old houses, cute alleys and even one cherry-tree going about its blooming-business.
  • Wanted to visit the Nomura-Ke Samurai House, but a large group of tourists put us of. Instead, bought some desert and had a beautiful walk home to our hotel. Passed some smaller shrines, some amazing craft shops, a local library, some stamp shops and generally the mood was great.
  • Had some troubles finding a restaurant the evening. Were to late and all the place we tried crossed their arms to indicate that they can’t take us in. Found space in a rather ordinary izakaya and still had a good time.
  • Visited the Omicho market by night, without any people, did some Onsen and rested well.

03. April - Kanazawa

  • Canceled the rather boring breakfast in the hotel and had chirashi5 Donburi in a little place at Omicho market.
  • It was a little bit rainy today and we decided to visit the higashi chaya district, one of The 3 Geisha Districts of Kanazawa | Kaname Japan. We passed the very cute nishi chaya district on our way. Found a very stylish shop and another stylish coffee and did some shopping and resting. We found out about Kaga-Boucha, a speciality tea of the region that is a variant of Hōjicha and really really good. The coffee made and iced late version and that stuff is just awesome.
  • Although higashi chaya destrict being slightly more touristically populated, the houses, streets, coffees and shops were utterly beautiful to witness. Florence and I decided to split up. She discovered the district a bit better and I went to hunt some more shrines and temples in the area.
  • I visited[[‪6410507106‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/6410507106|Node: ‪Hosenji Temple‬ (‪6410507106‬)]], which was uphill, hidden within trees and truely wabi-sabi; the proper and hospital [[‪3465220834‬)](https://www.openstreetmap.org/node/3465220834|Node: ‪Utasu Jinja Shrine‬ (‪3465220834‬)]], Matsuo shrine, which welcomed me by moss but sadly damaged by the earthquake, and the majestic Renshoji template, which has one of the largest Buddha statues in the region.
  • Meanwhile, Florence made her own experience, amongst which was the visit of a Japanese antique shop with beautiful artefacts and a very welcoming old merchant.
  • I had lunch at a cute sake bar, 日本酒 真琴 (nihonsyu makoto), without drinking sake, but with a great lunch menu consisting of many small plates.
  • We decided to meet back at the hotel, but both went independently to a nearby shopping mall where we accidently met at the stationary section… All the walking and looking at things is starting slowely tiring us out, but we also become fitter in terms of walking.
  • We wanted to to go a sushi place for dinner, 寿し寅 (sushi tora) with a ~80 year old sushi-chef, who is apparently super cute. Sadly they didn’t have any space anymore and we found a great izakaya nearby, 駅前囲酒屋 狼煙(のろし) (ekimae izakaya noroshi) . It was raining heavily and we were happy to have found a place. They were a bit uncomfortable to host some westerners first, since nobody spoke English and there was not English menu. But they had fun sending some of the younger waiters over to us and had a good laugh at him trying to interact with us. The food way beyond fantastic and we discovered sweat-potatoe shochu.
  • Leaving the restaurant satisfied and tipsy we plundered a tax-free shop and bought some snacks and medicaments.

04. April - Kanazawa-Osaka

  • Before taking the train to Osaka, we went to a post office to send some post cards, which was a nice activity.
  • I was a bit excited about the train-ride, because we could finally take the The Limited Express Thunderbird. But, since we already had that train-model from Shinjuku to Matsumoto I didn’t completely flip. There is a change of trains between Kanazawa and Osaka: You have to change 3 floors and walk some and that within 12 minutes. Of course I was stressed about that. They even have a website with a walkthrough video: 敦賀駅でのお乗り換え方法について：JRおでかけネット!
  • Once in Osaka, we still had take local trains for about 30 minutes. The feeling was completely different, people seemed more relaxed. We were staying in the south of Osaka, in the Sumiyoshi warden.
  • After checkin into our cute, cozy and very pretty Airbnb, we checked the bar in the same building, which was run by the same person that owns the Airbnb appartment. We quickly got introduced to some of the regulars and locals and had a drink or two. They gave us some tips and where to get some easy food
  • We took the local train two stations inwards, in the direction of Osaka center, to Tengachay. we found a cute tepanyaki restaurant, お好み焼き 宇月 (okyonomiyaki uzuki), and ordered some okonomiyaki and beer.
  • We also feel a bit in love with a cute train and train-station right in front of the bar: Tezukayama 4-chome Station from the Hankai line. Somebody on Google reviews wrote: “It often appears as a scene in Osaka City in NHK’s TV drama series Teppan, and I remember actually seeing the scene where it was filmed, but unfortunately I didn’t see the actress. More than 10 years have passed since then, but this area has not changed and the scenery is calming.”

05. April - Osaka

  • For starters, we visited on of the oldest shinto temple complexes in Japan, Sumiyoshi-taisha
  • There were lots of shrines, many holy trees marked by Shide (Shinto) and Shimenawa, and we finally saw some of our first fully blooming cherry trees.
  • Are lunch in a snack-chain, cheap but efficient.
  • The we walked to the Osaka Museum of Natural History and along the way saw some people doing Hanami picknicks and got to have a real taste of why everybody fancies these cherry blossoms so much.
  • In the museum we visited a history of scientific illustration exhibition that Florence especially liked a lot.
  • Went crazy shopping in the museum shop, where I bought books on cicadas and moss for no reason at all.
  • Visited the actual museum afterwards, which had some lovely diaramas. I liked the one on kitchen as an environment with an enourmous Japanese cockroach.
  • Continued to the gardens, did some cherry blossom photo shooting and got stuck watching a heron.
  • In the evening we went to the official Ghibli shop, because why not, and then to dove into Dōtonbori to snack and drink. What a place! It seems endless.
  • Afterwards we wanted to cool of in the bar next to our AirBnb and got invited for a night hanami together with the locals. So we visited a small park with an island in the middle of a pond with a tiny shrine. We were told that the pond next to some turtles hosts a dragon and the locals were very happy when I showed proper respect by a quick prayer. We continued to drink wine, eat snacks and shoot some photos.

06. April - Osaka

  • Today’s goal was to visit the nearby Himeji Castle, known as the White Heron Castle. We took a regional train to get there and saw the seaside every now and then.
  • A lot of the things were closed when we arrived, but we found a lovely soba place in # Nishi-Nikaimachi Shopping Street, Hanasoba Ryori You. Florence ate some cold soba, if I remember correctly, and I had some Oden.
  • The park of the castle was in full hanami mode and there were thousands of people, families and friend groups, doing picknick and the cherry trees were fluffy with flowers.
  • The tour to go inside the castle took to long so we had a good look at the outside areas and parcs and aaaaaall the cherry trees. Prime selfie time.
  • The castle had also a nearby garden area, Himeji Castle Nishi-Oyashiki-Ato Garden KOKO-EN, which we visited. They were cute but we were already filled with experiences from the castle.
  • On the way back to the train station run into a hanami folk and craft market in the ‪大手前公園‬ (Ōtemae Park‬)with some singing going on and lots of place selling things.
  • We found a small shop specialised on neko (cat) figurines. I could finally replace my broken one at home.

07. April - Osaka

  • My father wished for a Daruma doll as souvenir, and on my quest to get on of these, we visited on of the oldest buddhist temple complexes in Osaka, the Shitennō-ji.
  • Next to some wonderful stone work and some cherry trees, we run again into a lovely folks and craft market, where we sifted through the things, drank some coffee and bought some ceramics.
  • After asking around, I finally found a bigger, proper version of daruma in a small shop next to Way: ‪大黒堂‬ (‪Shitenno-ji Daikokudo‬)
  • Our next stop was Iwashimizu Hachimangū, a tipp that we got from the locals instead of going to Kyoto. Already in the regional train, there were quite a lot of people.
  • Arriving, we saw a lot of people also leaving here, but luckily going to a nearby park for hanami. A nearby parc, Way: ‪Yodogawa Kasen Koen - Sewaritei Area‬ (‪417424354‬), seems to be a local favourite for hanami.
  • The temple complex is on the top of a hill and at its feet we run into another small folk fest where we ate some Yakisoba and got a warm welcome by the people there.
  • The shinto complex is beautiful and, when going for a prayer, I saw a woman with an aibo which made me very happy. That example made my interested in the intersection of technology and spirituality and was a main driver for my master thesis.
  • We also witnessed a shinto ritual but we didn’t know what it was about.
  • On our return we walked down the hill which was cooling and we could listen to some nice unknown birds.
  • Back in Osaka, we visited the Nintendo Store because I wanted to buy some Pikmin merchandise. for a friend. The store is its own kind of screaming kids hell…
  • Since this was our last evening, for dinner we retourned to the tepanyaki restaurant we visited on our first night, and ate okonomyiaki.

08. April - Osaka-Odawara

  • This day we traveled from Osaka to Odawara, our last station before heading home. We originally wanted to go to the Relation: ‪Hakone‬ (‪2689439‬) | OpenStreetMap region to have a view of Mount Fuji - Wikipedia. But most of the places there were booked and or expensive. So we settled for the sea-side city Odawara, that was also easy to reach.
  • We took the shinkansen, which was actually a painful experience. Until this moment we had relatively little encounters with other tourists and here we met some hardcore assholes, with little respect for their surroundings and taking way more space then they should be allowed to have. I know hating on other tourists is a weird thing…
  • We stayed in the lovely RYOKAN PLUM - Hotel in Odawara, Japan which is just the cutes place ever. It’s a renovated old guesthouse, with a touch of modern furniture. We even meet gorokichi, the stray cat who hangs there regularly. So often that, as a curtesy, the cat is nambed as the host of the place.
  • After check-in, we went straight to the sea. There is a beach with stone cobles. Hearing and smelling the sea was such a beautiful and calming experience.
  • We spent a lot of time there, just walking up and down the beach, looking at this and that corner, sifting through rocks and algea and recover a bit from the denseness of Osaka.
  • On our stroll through the city we came by yet another castle which we promptly visited. Odawara Castle - Wikipedia is quite cute, but we didn’t went inside, instead just got some matcha ice cream in the castle park and the obligaotry castle stamp.
  • For dinner we got a tipp for a nice place with local and fresh fish that was right at the train station, 小田原の海鮮料理店「海鮮茶屋 魚國」 ホーム-TOP | ホーム. I had some very interesting fish I never tasted before.

09. April - Odawara

  • the ryokan invited to rest a bit and enjoy, with very nice innenarchitecture
  • it was also a rainy day and florence suggested we go to a nearby coffee, that is linked with the ryokan, were we had a bit of a brunch with pancakes and coffee
  • they also had a nice shop with some local art and craft things
  • we went for a walk and came across the castle park were the rain washed down a lot of cherry blossom leaves, signaling the end of the hanami season
  • the city looks ragged, with a lot of rust everywhere, like so often in a sea side place
  • for lunch we went to a place that kept local everyday food cusine; we had xyz and it was wonderful
  • went to the beach again to enjoy this place and looking at some other corners without any specific goal
  • ramen in a proper ramen place for dinner, struggled with the vending machine where one has to compose the ramen

10. April - Odawara

  • up very very early to catch a bus to hakonen before the tourist masses come
  • went straight to the park that was the former royal villa and had a beautfiul view on mount fuji
  • ate some onigiri for breakfast while enjoying the view
  • a longer stroll through the park that had a lot of moss, the air was colder up here
  • visiting a local shinto shrine to get another goshuin stamp, saw a crazy line of people trying to get a photo in front of a gate
  • took a boat tour on the lake, there was also another pirate boat which seemed horrible with people and sound
  • strong winds, good view, enjoying calm boatride, got along the gate, but from the other side
  • eat a curry and a udon soup in a small restaurant before trying to get the bus back, but by then it was already tourist hell and we had to skip a bus because it was too full
  • visited a small and forgotten shinto shrine complex, amongst which dedicated to fox, to get my last stamp and it was by far the most beautiful one; had to wait long and wondered if the tempe worker run of
  • visited the coffee again and had some tea and looked at art books
  • said goodby to goro and a nice dog and wanted to have some more fresh fish for dinner

11. April - Odawara-Tokyo

  • went to the beach again before heading to noisy tokyo
  • the place was fantastic and gave us much peace, the sun came out
  • finally visited a restaurant that florence wanted to go, but was closed before, a very good ramen place
  • decided to take the regional train to tokyo, to avoid the tourist shinkansen
  • checked in and went to tokyo pigmet, a dream for florence
  • had a nice apero before heading into an area with lots of restaurants and went back to this chain were you can grill your own stuff and had one final feast

12. April - Tokyo-Paris

  • early up, got a taxi and everything went fine
  • the flight is long but doable, watched 5 films
  • airport to train station in paris brought us back to european reality

Bookmarks goshuin- and eki-stamps

Footnotes

  1. izakaya: Establishment that is more of a bar then restaurant, but always offers wide range of dishes; Izakaya ^2an](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ryokan): Guesthouse ↩

  2. soba-dokoro: Restaurant which specialised in soba noodles ↩

  3. type of yam; Yamaimo – Eat-Japan ↩

  4. neba-neba: slimey; Neba Neba  - Japan’s Slimy Delights - Japan Travel Guide MATCHA ↩

  5. Chirashi Sushi | Two Plaid Aprons ↩

Graph View

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